A Muslim Country

Jordan is a very religious place, much more obviously so than Beirut. Almost all the women wear hijab, and those without are most often Christian. The standard greeting is "Assalamu aleikum", and if you reply in kind you are assumed to be Muslim (a pitfall for me). Time is referenced in terms of prayer times, so I've been getting familiar with them. The call to prayer from the mosque nearby usually wakes me around 4:30 a.m., and we are treated to mini-sermons before the prayer times during the day. I see men in robes and caps streaming toward the mosque in the evening. I'm also learning a lot in class and out. For example, it's not okay to sit on a table if the Koran is on it (oops).

The weekend is Friday and Saturday. The Qasid Institute decided to have class on Saturday and Sunday to avoid a two-day weekend. Yesterday being Friday, I got some shopping done. I met a friend at the Hyatt Hotel lobby (after going through a security screening) and headed to some places. Two of the taxi drivers involved were playing sermons or the call to prayer in their cars.

The security checkpoints are ubiquitous as well. They are just like the ones at the airport- you pass your bag to the side, and walk through the "doorframe". They are at the major supermarkets and malls. An interesting feature of the one at Mecca Mall is the two separate points for men and women. This separation of genders isn't unique, it permeates the society. You often don't go shopping as a family, but in groups of men or women. I noticed this at the Global Village fair. There were families, but the majority were little teams of 4-5 men or women of various ages strolling around together. And no unrelated men and women- an impossible thought!!

Even construction workers wear long-sleeved shirts and long pants. They are also very respectful and do not stare when you walk past. As a matter of fact people are very courteous here, except when it comes to taxis and lines. Lines are a totally foreign concept.

Before I came here, I thought I would feel uncomfortable and restricted in a majority Muslim country; but as a matter of fact it is quite nice. Jordanians are mostly very welcoming to foreigners, and I've had some great conversations with taxi drivers. I can't deny that I would probably not feel quite so free if I were not wearing a veil; but as it is I blend in fairly well. Yesterday I bought an abaya (long black robe) so I can go to the gym without changing. The gender separation, which is also in place at Qasid with separate lounges for men and women, means I don't talk to men very often; but I don't feel I'm being prevented from talking to them. All the teachers are male, so I am not in a single-gender world.

In all the impression from the surface is that everyone is living in peace and harmony, most people very religious, and nobody planning any protests or civil rights movements. Of course there are issues lurking beneath... but for the moment this kingdom is a great place to be!